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Ken Giles fishing the chop
 

Chopped Worm FishingWith
Ken Giles

As written By
Grant Albutt

Recently I paid a visit to Preston Innovations Woodland View, where I met up with my Good friend Ken Giles, to compile this feature on chopped worm fishing. Kens pedigree speaks for itself and I'm sure I don't have to give you the full ins and outs because if I did I would not have enough room left on this page, and the feature would be very short!

I chose Ken for this article because he has been fishing the 'chop' for the past 15 years and there isn't much he doesn't know about this method. Now down to the nitty gritty.

Ken likes the smaller sized Dendrobena worms of which he will keep one part to three parts peat. Anything over and above this he frowns upon because the worm, he believes can become stressed and so loses its condition. For an average match he will take with him three quarters to one kilo along with four pints of caster that is always fresh. He washes his worms using a colander that he takes with him to the waters side. A part from a lot of fisheries stipulating that worms must be washed, it also makes them easier to chop. The worm is not to be cut to small, as Ken believes that the smaller the chop, the smaller the fish it will catch.

chop worm scissorsAt the start of a match he feeds a good-sized pot of neat worms followed by a good pot of caster. He stresses avoid putting in too much at the start but build your peg slowly but surely. Avoid the jacuzzi effect that is made by lots of swirling fish in your swim, generally caused by over feeding because this will result in foul hooked and lost fish. Drip- feeding using a small pot is, in kens opinion, the solution.

If ever you see Ken fishing he chop you will not see him fishing at distance, he will fish under his feet in the margins. He believes this to be the best holding area for the carp or any other fish that is interested in his bait that day. As he states the bait is so versatile that it will catch you anything that swims and is not selective like some other baits.

Double bladed chopping
scissors as used by Ken.

chopped worm
T
he elastic that he uses is Preston Innovations size12, but this is his personal choice. He states that it is completely up to the individual as to what they use as is line, hooks, floats etc, but he likes the Preston because he has the confidence that it will handle any fish he encounters. Line is again personal choice but he has faith in the Preston Powerline, which is very supple for it's diameter.
 

Kens Drip Mix

His floats are Preston PB4, varying in size from 4 x 10 to 4 x 16 dependant upon conditions; this float has a cane insert and carbon stem, which is ideal for worm fishing.

Hooking the worm will depend on a number of factors. If the fish are hungry, Ken hooks it through the body. If things are a little on the slow side, he states, try hooking the worm through the head and feed it along the shank of the hook. This may enhance the presentation and help take a few fish.

Shotting patterns will differ in the summer to winter. In the summer he will use styles instead of shot. He believes that this will give the bait a slower drop and the styles will stay central on the line. Shot does not always have the same depth of split and can sit on the line unevenly. This will not give you the best presentation. The biggest style that will be used is a size seven and the smallest a ten. In winter he prefers to use shot, which he will bulk with two or three droppers.

Hooks are also very important to Ken, albeit a personal choice, he likes the Preston PR 22 size 16. This he states has a fine wire and he has never had one straighten out. A useful tip is to stick to diameter line sizes or breaking strain size, which ever you are comfortable with, otherwise you may become confused between the two and end up with something you didn't want.

One interesting point with regard to hooks is that he will remove 95% of the spade leaving a tiny amount so that the line can grip the hook. He will make seven or eight turns of line along the shank, cut the excess nylon and then coat the shank with a fly tying varnish to seal it. This, he states will help presentation as the hook will hang true from the line and not be curved or twisted. An interesting point and one we all overlook when looking for that finer presentation.

Once on the bankside, Ken recommends making up an assortment of rigs using different sizes of float, hook etc, for varying depths but make up two or more of the same type just in case of a break, tangle etc.

Another piece of advice from the man is to buy a pole which you can afford. Don't over stretch your self. Also take into account the cost of the spares if anything should happen.

Grant Albutt

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