ian the fish

If you are plumbing up accuratly i see a problem with stretching the line and getting a false reading when using this tecnique.
"Hook your hook to the bottom of your top 3, then mark the top of the float, onto the section. As you say, if you trash a rig, you can put a new one on without having to re plumb".

What i do is loop my hook around the pole tighten line until straight, then mark at the hook and also mark were the tip of the float is on the pole. Or i use a black marker on my line at the tip of the float, this way i can check the depth at a glance (pointless if you get broken).

Ian

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Brian G

Rive T will you please refrain from adulterating sensible threads with your weird humor. Many thanks

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Ad Slade

Here here, i used Rive T's technichue this morning, however i got too close the too the rig and cut it in half

Zebedee

I use the old chinagraph
but with an added refinement,I usually have them rolling about in my box drawer so I put an old biro cap on them to save the point.

andykoi

It never seizes to amase me the amount of anglers I see re plumbing up in matchs.
we spend sorry I spend between 10-15min plumbing up on average before a match and a couple of seconds to mark it on my top kits. there are few reasons why you have a depth change some have been covered i.e. shallowing up e.t.c. one of the main reasons imo is line stretch, how many times have you adjusted your float when fishing corn dead depth because the float do's not sit quite right when using the corn as a botton shot, or fishing paste and using the paste as shot to settle the float at dead depth. I use a well known brand of line that Ihave had stretch up to 3cm on a rig only 750cm long. plumb it and mark it
rant over. lol

andykoi

oh nearly forgot I use tippex. pmsl

wader

sounds about right for you Andy by the way whos hansfords

wader

by the way i use a tippex pen

royst

could be a mistake to use tippex.............

ridgeacre

never thought about that royst