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diy pole repair

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  • diy pole repair

    Well i just started to do some pole repairs..Ok so wot lol lol lol!! Well true enough ...Was just wondering if there are others out there doing the same thing ,who perhaps would like to share some secrets ,findings or wot ever..

    I started with a cm kit and was happy with that however im looking at buying some more carbon cloth and resin of course. So started to look around and wauw loads out there......Raises alot of questions though......
    One being : is there or are there any particular types of epoxy resin/s that lend themselves much better to rod/pole repair?...
    I noticed a lot have different working times..Whats better for pole repair lets say one from 45 mins or one of 120min?

    With the kit i got 90g cloth .Has anyone used a lighter cloth?
    How light can u go?
    I mean is it ok to use a light cloth for lets say a split or for wall strengthening but are they[lighter cloths] no good for a break?
    Perhaps a break fixed with lighter clothes would mean u would have to wrap more!!!! Anyone???

    Also this cloth looks much more like the structure of the pole which makes me think it could deliver a less visible repair..... Has anyone used this type of cloth what are the pros and cons? It also goes down to 40g....

    Has anyone got some ideas on getting a break aligned 100% before u start with wrapping? I made a few moulds/supports like in the video However there is know way of knowing ,if when clamped down, that they are 100% in line with each other!! LOL LOL i found out the hard way....... Putting a sleeve on the inside is one way i have used but isnt something u can do all the time especially when repairing a telescopic part ,with these the inside diameter has to remain the same!!!!

    Like me fishing im clueless!!!! anyone got some info??please

  • #2
    There's an article on the forum about a product by Carbon Mods, look at that.
    I have an incidental on my left shoulder, he's always there, he's my friend.
    He says he gives me good advice. does he ?


    • #3
      thnx jethro i started with one of them kits mate! wicked stuff ... and great video but still got more questions maybe i should phone em up!!


      • #4
        ok ok load of room for improvement ! hence some of me questions! like input and output!


        • #5
          Andrew, I have been using the Carbon mods stuff for a few months, in fact the sections used in the video on their web site are mine, my first thoughts on their repair job was that it was a tad bulky and suggested they use the lighter, hence thinner carbon wrap. I am not sure that this thinner grade works, ok its strong enough, however the process of sanding the wrap down to obtain the desired finish means you can easily break through the first layer, which cosmetically looks poor, and exposes a rough surface.
          Alignment of sections that are in two halves is best done using a jig as per the video, or even two off them if required, you hold two in a workmate type vice. I found that using cable ties was not really effective and the sections could move about, this i cured by using velcro strips. However I check the alignment of the sections several times whilst the resin is curing by looking from both the side of the section, but more importantly from the end.

          pole repairs.jpg
          One of my repairs which looked even better after a thin coat of resin was applied ad lightly sanded with 1200 wet and dry using water as a lubricant. Carbon was 195gr with a full double wrap.


          • #6
            so how have u kept the ends so clean BRIAN!! The bit where the new carbon ends ! U dont seems to have any resin residue seepage left ...U clean that of before its cured or usin so little that it dont seep....... Mine when hardend takes on the shape of that shrinking tape its murder to sand..... GOt some ideas for the next time like tape it of first..

            My first one i only did double 90g which showed a hair line crack when sanding so i done it again! Its ok....cupping kit .....didnt snap with leem balls in it so ok.....

            WOts the reason behind using 195g cloth? and less wraps!!!
            I saw they have a wider shrinking tape u use that yet?

            EVER USED an old pole section as mandrel to keep the two bits aligned? Pulling it out before the resin cured or using some of that release grease for making molds..... lol lol i cant wait for someone to snap a section and do me the honour and letting me repair it! lol lol sick lol.


            • #7
              Andrew there is seepage and over run of resin on the ends, which takes a bit of effort to sand down, i have found that its better to not use the hair drier to close to the ends but just allow the residual heat from the middle to shrink the tape, I found that playing heat around the ends caused the tape to shrivel and cause linear ridges in the resin which become difficult to remove.
              I still use a double wrap of the 195gr carbon and seems ok to me. No have not used any mandrels to align the sections, not sure that it would work, one you might move the alignment if removing it when part cured or it sets too hard and cant be removed. I think that the slight bead of resin inside the pole gives some support to the jointing process, which you would not get with a mandrel.



              • #8
                For a jig, how much room do you need under the area to be worked on?

                Maybe some heavy duty Ali angle, fixed as a full length to something straight, and then a section cut out to do the repair on?

                Half man, half Octoplus, half bean wannabe test pilot.


                • #9
                  For curing the resin Make an oven out of old Buiscuit tin Line it with heavy duty foil make a hole through sides so pole goes through it & use a couple of small strip lights (tubes ) inside works a treatg !!


                  • #10


                    • #11
                      Nice one lc...ive been using a jig made of wood and wondered if any misalignment came from that! So this option is something worth looking at!

                      Brian wrote
                      I found that playing heat around the ends caused the tape to shrivel and cause linear ridges in the resin which become difficult to remove
                      exactly thats what i have been experiencing... i use a paint stripper though [turned down].... HAve u got any pics of the section after its had a coat of resin.... TO compair!!

                      Thats the stuff i use Dunk gonna be gettin me next lot soon.....


                      • #12
                        To be honest and save yourself a lot of time and money just send to Scott perfect first time every time. Not saying dont have a go but when the real deal is so cheap is it worth the hassle.
                        Paypal gift is for friends only


                        • #13
                          well im not in the uk so Scott isnt an option sadly mind u ive heard of quit a few in the uk bit like float makers lol! Out of interest how much would a 5th clean break cost!
                          We got one guy that i know of who does it but that would be about 50 euros exclusive post.....
                          The kit cost less and u can repair quit a few with it.As far as time its really quick not including drying time .I aint timed it but i bet half an hour mayber an hour............
                          yeah like u pointed out u got the learning curve mind u thats the bit i quit like im nosey lol....the fustration of falling on ur face when turned around gives me a buzzzzzzz! lol


                          • #14

                            /I found that playing heat around the ends caused the tape to shrivel and cause linear ridges in the resin which become difficult to remove./

                            this is tape i use and as soon as it cooled down i remove tape and sand it down straight a way then left to harden.


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by rich200 View Post
                              To be honest and save yourself a lot of time and money just send to Scott perfect first time every time. Not saying dont have a go but when the real deal is so cheap is it worth the hassle.
                              What utter tosh not worth the hassle you say, how do you know if you have sent yours to Essele. Sorry Rich but it costs more in postage than it costs to do a repair. I understand that the average price of a Esselle repair is around £30 not including postage, a kit costs around £30 and will complete lets say three number 4s and at least one other on a bigger section, now explain to me how its cheaper.
                              I will concede that Esselle do a great job, but not everyone can afford his prices, just the same as not everyone can afford a top of the range pole, a case of horses for courses methinks. If money were no object we would just replace a section and there would be no Esselles needed. Additionally I quite enjoy testing my skills out to see if I can make or repair something, mind you that stems back to the days when quite often it was just simply not commercially available, but thats another story.
                              Last edited by Brian G; 11 July 2012, 09:38 PM.